How can the design of I.C.H. garments and textiles be improved through links with modern fashion design?
葛丽婧大师：At the moment I.C.H. garments and textiles are perceived as being separate to Fashion, which in my mind they are not. Because once long ago they were fashionable, and because of their good design have travelled fairly unchanged through the centuries to the present day. However, without loosing their intrinsic heritage they can be designed to be more contemporary to fit into life in the 21Century.
This can be done in a number of ways, starting with Research. It is important for designers to research the ancient history of the garments and textiles by visiting museums and libraries and looking closely at ancient Chinese Fashion History. As part of this research designers should also visit High End contemporary fashion shops and Shopping Malls that stock both Eastern and Western Brands. Look at on line and off line Fashion Magazines. They then need to start fusing their findings and mixing ancient and modern design together.
For instance, a beautifully embroidered bag, the design having been passed down through the centuries, might now be the wrong size, too small too large for contemporary use? The colours might look a bit old fashioned although the embroidery is beautiful. It is often very small adjustments that need to be made to make the design suitable for contemporary use.
How can fashion education help improve the design of I.C.H. garments and textiles?
葛丽婧大师：By teaching students about QUALITY. QUALITY OVER QUANTITY.
Design a beautiful garment or textile with care and attention. The design must be modern but also classic so that if does not go out of date, the fabric must be high quality so that it feels beautiful and does not wear out. It must be constructed with great skill, and be as beautiful on the inside as the outside. For trims such as buttons, zips, braids, they must be very high quality, nothing spoils a beautiful dress more that cheap buttons! If all these areas are adhere to, the final garment or textile should be exquisite and the customer who buys it will want to keep it for ever, so that it has a longer life than something that has been designed with out any love.
At Gottelier Studio we run lectures in Eastern Fashion History and Western Fashion History in parallel. So the students learn about Chinese and European Fashion History in tandem. This is very important as I think in the recent past Chinese Fashion students have been too influenced by the West and they need to be proud of their Chinese design heritage. Ideally a mix of influences from East and West are the most successful. Look at Chinese Fashion Designers, Angel Chen, Shu Shu Tong, Miss Min, etc.
在葛特立工作室，我们同时设置了东方服装史和西方服装史的课程，因此学生们能将中国和欧洲的时尚历史串联起来。 这是非常重要的，因为我认为中国近年接受时尚教育的学生受到西方影响太大了，他们应该为他们的中国传统设计感到自豪。理想情况下，能同时受到中西方的影响是最成功的状态。例如中国的时尚设计师，Angel Chen, Shu Shu Tong, Miss Min等等。
法国毛毡艺术家、摄影师 Françoise Hoffmann
中国设计师 凌睿婉 ▲
▲ 台湾设计师 潘怡良
· First in China to have been written specifically to take full advantage of being located in the heart of the world's fashion manufacturing nation.
· First in China to be written and delivered by ‘Masters’ with a unique combination of successful Industrial and educational track records.