The following works were created by 9 B.A. second year students from Shanghai Institue of Visual Arts, DeTao Masters Academy, Studio Gottelier Advanced Fashion Design Program (FAD). Despite designing knitwear for the first time, the students presented technically advanced designs in imaginative and diverse concepts. All the final outfits were constructed and made by students themselves.
Sissi's collection title describes her monochrome menswear collection well - 'Etching' with Knitwear. She works closely with textiles. Her favorite artists include Antoni Tapies and Antony Gormley. When talkd about Gormley, Sissi explained: 'both his work and his understandings on art make me think that he is a Zen master'. This Zen aesthetic is a key component to her work, not only this was reflected in her coulor choices of white, cream and greys, but also raised a challenge for her to design with simplicity. Sissi started from one of the most common knitwear technique: drop stitch. Yet, she has created a very powerful result by redesigning this basic technique. She said: 'I have discovered the key techniques Antoni Tapies has used in his paintings, which are the elements of connection. I chose drop stitch as the key technique of my garment. And I selected core spun yarn, as the yarn has a body and very soft at the same time, it is also very contemporary, many patterns can be created by this yarn and my knitting technique.' Utilizing a basic technique to the extreme, maybe this is her interpretation of Zen.
Evelyn is a cool girl, maybe this is the reason why she has chosen Patti Smith as her Muse, the image of her woman. Her collection is inspired by Indian artist Mithu Sen. 'She always try to explore the essence of dialogue. In her opinion, communications are not only available among human beings, but also available between animals and objects.' Inspired by this idea, Evelyn was trying to explore the human-animal boundary through textiles. ‘I was inspired by bone structures and hair braiding and decided to apply these ideas as my construction and finishing techniques. I selected faux leather to imitate spine, which is a representation of the bonding between human beings and animals. The knit textures were to imitate animal skins.’ Evelyn has her own unique and fresh understanding of contemporary Womenswear. Is this a dress, half of a jumpsuit or an accessory? Maybe a product name is not the most important thing to Evelyn.
Abby's Womenswear collection is inspired by artist Koen Lybaert whose paintings constantly study lakes and nature. Comfort is an essence to Abby’s design. She selected fine cashmere yarns and fringes to recreate the texture of the paintings. The silhouette of the final outfit has referenced swimwear, her work seek to appeal to the ladies who are not timid to accentuate their figures. Abby describes the ideal woman image she would like to create is ‘effortless and charming’. She picked blogger and model Taylor Lashae as a representation of the image.
Body and gender have been the core topic Bridget has been studying. She said she always turns to Salvia for inspiration; ‘I am fascinated by her seemingly strange, mutated style. She is her own category. She has her own unique visual language, and these unrealistic distorted human bodies have inspired me.’ At the same time, referencing sketches and plastic dolls from German artist Hans Bermer, Bridget has taken on a creative journey of inventing new materials. Central to her creation is this technique of sealing lace-like knitwear fabric in semi-transparent silicone. With this technique, she has created an organic look by sealing fabric when fraying and preserved the free suspension of yarns.
Starting from Heather Hansen’s work of anatomically produced geometrical paintings, Amanda went on an exploration of shapes and bodies. The delicacy of the lines from Hansen’s painting were well-interpreted with a carefully fully-fashioned, fine gauge knit as well as a fresh, sensual colour palette. These same lines were also being translated into some more ambitious 3D silhouettes. Furthermore, Amanda went through in-depth experiments to ensure the garment silhouettes would not restrain any body movements.
A deeper metaphysical dissection Claude Monet's work was never the intention behind Leslie’s collection. Leslie's mission was very simple and clear from the beginning: recreating the texture and the perfect colour balance from this Master of Impressionism. She explains: ‘the fabric development was based on the painting Water Lily from Monet. I chose tubular and full-needle techniques to represent the oil painting's illustrious textures.’ After extensive colour tests and samplings, Leslie constructed a desirable men’s maxi jumper. One could view the jumper as a fragment from Water Lily and feel the heavy texture of the paint which disperses effortlessly through the garment. The fuzzy mohair has created a hazy ripple effect to highlight the elegant organic swirls.
Inspired by artist Miwa Komatsu who constantly paints Japanese Gods and mythical beasts in her work, Xinyi extracted the colour palette from her paintings that is evil and mysterious. Also, Xinyi has described she was drawn to the way Komatsu paints that is ‘wild, free and unrestrained’. This idea was equally extended to her understanding on pattern cutting. She has skipped the whole traditional process of drafting and has certainly created her own working method. The dress is simply made from many rectangular pieces, the fluid shapes are being created by the stretchy nature of knitwear. Letting materials become the lead for her organic creative process, Xinyi avoided the time spent on fully-fashioning and invented an sustainable zero-waste construction.
Naci’s black and white menswear collection has demonstrated a strong grasp in artisanal skills. Central to Naci’s work is the study of bodies as well as the representation of bodies in 2 dimensional world. He has presented strong interest in Ito Juji who Naci describes as a horror manga genius: ‘in his manga, he combines lines and thriller perfectly, each line is like a ghost walking through his work.’ Naci has effortlessly translated the lines of the body shadow sketches from Juji’s manga into graphical knit samples. Treating knit and various textures as brushes, he was aiming to re-illustrate men’s torso with shadow. Naming Marilyn Manson as his muse, Naci describes him as ‘grim and fanatical’. This has also informed him in detail designs, for example, a hint of leather gloves and biker jacket style wrap collar.
You would not be surprised to see this ‘Kawaii’ collection from Ruby after meeting this young, sweet lady. Staring from the paintings of the famous Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, Ruby’s main challenge is to create everything with dots, both knit motifs and garment structures such as sleeves. Some pixelated garment details echoes a similar style from the video game in the 90s, delivering her sense of humor. Those graphical collar and pocket motifs were created simply by the manipulation of the dot sizes and densities. Very simple but effective. A combination of cotton yarn and elastic rubber yarn has given the dots an extra texture. A knitwear coat is a relatively less common product, especially the one with a voluminous silhouette that makes the wear extra doll-like.
特别鸣谢 Speical thanks to
Art director Mia Chen
Photographer 森林 forest
Hair & Makeup 罗云 Model Moy & 贾莲
Photographer Assistant 袁志龙
Stylist assistant Amber Liu
Photographer (Sissi) 牛子儒
Photographer (Xinyi) 韩涵
Photographer (Leslie) Carey
· First in China to have been written specifically to take full advantage of being located in the heart of the world's fashion manufacturing nation.
· First in China to be written and delivered by ‘Masters’ with a unique combination of successful Industrial and educational track records.