Are These Sandwiches Really Burgers w/ Chinese Characteristics?
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You're
never that far from a burger in Beijing these days, what with either a
McDonald's or a gastropub on every other corner. But if you're looking
for a burger with a little more local flavor, then our fair city can
oblige you there, too. Roujiamo and donkey meat sandwiches, two
equally popular, yet vastly different, dishes, are both often referred
to as "Chinese burgers" thanks to their essential "meat in bread"
characteristics. To be honest, we're inclined to believe that the term
"burger" sells these complex sandwiches far short. However, there is no
doubt that they share the indulgent, guilty pleasure characteristics of a
burger, especially when enjoyed as a late night snack.
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肉夹馍
ròujiāmó
When it comes to "Chinese burgers," no sandwich is cited more often than the roujiamo.
Thought by some to date back as far as the Qin dynasty (221-206 BC),
although probably more realistically to the early Tang dynasty (AD
618-907), the roujiamo has a strong claim to being "the world's first hamburger." Originating in Shaanxi province, roujiamo have since become a popular snack all over China.
Literally meaning "meat stuffed in bread," to make this dish a dense baked bun (a 白夹馍 báijiāmó)
is split open and stuffed with meat that has been long-braised in a
complex mixture of spices. The meat is usually chopped by hand with a
cleaver to ensure a good mix of lean meat and fat. Pork roujiamo
are the most common nowadays, but you will find beef or lamb versions
served at Muslim restaurants, particularly in cities like Xi'an. Popular
add-ins include green peppers, cilantro, and chili oil.
Roujiamo are
usually enjoyed as a cheap snack or street food, often alongside a bowl
of noodles. However, we're occasionally partial to the cute miniature
version served at upscale Shaanxi restaurant Zhen Ai Zhongguo. They are also a traditional partner for 凉皮 liángpí, cold noodles made from rice or wheat gluten tossed in sesame-chili sauce, which you can sample at city-wide chain Weijia Liangpi.
驴肉火烧
lǘròu huǒshāo
Look,
we get it, the mere mention of donkey meat is enough to put a lot of
people off. But if you let your squeamishness get the best of you,
you'll be missing out on one of northern China's tastiest snacks. Lvrou huoshao, as
they're called in Chinese, are thought to have originated in either
Baoding or Hejian in Hebei province during the late Ming dynasty,
gaining popularity during the Qing dynasty when the expansion of the
rail network meant donkeys were no longer essential for transporting
goods. Donkey meat is so popular in this part of China that there is
even a popular saying, "In heaven, there is dragon meat; on earth, there
is donkey meat."
Like the meat in a roujiamo, the
donkey in these "burgers" is braised in a variety of fragrant spices,
giving it a taste and texture not completely unlike corned beef. This
meat is then chopped (sometimes with green peppers or cilantro, similar
to roujiamo) and stuffed inside a crisp pastry-like shell,
which may be pan-fried or baked depending on the vendor. To our minds,
the long, rectangular shape of these disqualifies them from being a
burger in the truest sense but then, the word huoshao is hard
to translate so we don't blame the person who came up with the name
"donkey burger." Small places selling donkey meat sandwiches can be
found across the city but city-wide chain Wang Pangzi is
generally considered one of the best (there are convenient branches in
Gulou and Houhai if you need a quick lunch after sightseeing).
Step out of your "beef patty between bread" comfort zone at this weekend's 2019 Beijing Burger Festival,
where you can sample everything from fish burgers to chicken burgers to
vegan jackfruit burgers. Advance tickets are sold out but you'll still
be able to buy on the door!
RELATED: Shake your buns at the Beijing Burger Festival to win massive prize booty
Photos: Wikimedia, Robynne Tindall
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