New British-Themed Sports Bar Opens in Jiaodaokou
"The Gallagher brothers would be flattered, surely." That's the thought that may cross your mind as you step into Wonderwall, Jiaodaokou's newest boozy addition, named after Noel and Liam Gallagher's biggest hit as Brit pop institution Oasis. Well, if they gave a toss, that is. This hutong newbie is designed as a tribute to those surly rock stars and fellow Brits who love nothing more than a pint and some footie.
Situated on Jiadaokou Nandajie, Lu Shao, known in local F&B circles for opening a handful of successful restaurants in the Sanlitun area like the Dafa Korean joint and the Majia Qingzhencai Muslim restaurant (both hits with Chinese patrons), is Wonderwall's genial yet gruff proprietor ("Sorry, my English is sh*t," he tells us with a sheepish grin, cheeky profanities also emblazoned on his sweater). Though not too much about the place struck us as particularly British, Lu explained that he loves and was inspired by the UK's pub culture when opening this place up. His greater aim with the venue: open a sports bar on the first floor in a part of town that's practically devoid of such joints, while also running a snazzier cocktail bar upstairs.
The first floor is quite bar bones - a TV playing football above the bar, a little over half a dozen stools lined up in front, plain walls devoid of much decor that make a soccer shrine opposite the bar, and the bar itself, pop all the more. Popular imports like Goose Island (RMB 55) and Vedett (also RMB 55) are on tap. You can also get a more interesting alternative by the glass: Blue Point (bluepointbrewing.com), an enticingly bitter toasted lager from Long Island, New York that's a rarity in Beijing and goes down more than smoothly enough.
The upstairs feels worlds away from the sports bar comprising Wonderwall's first floor. This cozy, gently lit cocktail bar is an ideal spot for couples to settle in and schmooze their winter blues away. A curtained-off sofa nook in the corner was occupied by a few fun-loving, clearly buzzing couples when we stopped by.
Upstairs bartender Li Xuan is solidly capable when mixing up standard cocktails like old fashioneds and martinis (these drinks being priced in the RMB 40-60). More creative, speciality cocktails would surely be welcome in a city brimming with such options, so hopefully Lu brings such speakeasy connoisseur before long. And in terms of the ambiance, Capital Spirits and Fang both handily have Wonderwall's upstairs beat when it comes to offering up romantic hutong settings, though the second floor of Lu's new spot still holds its own well enough, thanks to its fun, laidback vibe.
Will Wonderwall become all the rage with hutong hipsters hankering for a new haunt after so many old favorites were demolished this year? Not likely. Yet this new venue charms all the same with its down to earth atmosphere, along with a few flourishes (rare to Beijing beers downstairs; comfy, alluring ambiance up top) that elevate it just above dive bar status.
A few more such flourishes - such as more creative cocktails, maybe some fun themed sports nights during playoff season on the first floor - would help make this already promising bar better capitalize on its potential and better compete with the hutong big guns (Mao Mao Chong, Capital Spirits, Tiki, Ron Mexico, Fang, etc). In the meantime, the sparse options within the recently chai-ed walking distance of Wonderwall make it a solid choice for alleyway regulars looking for a laid back new bar that has some subtle, promising surprises on tap and upstairs.
Wonderwall
Daily 7pm-late. 2 Qianyuan Ensi Hutong (off Jiadaokou Nandajie) (138 1158 1196)
交道口南大街前圆恩寺胡同2号
Photos: Kyle Mullin
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