Tired of Winter? Sail on a Sustainable Trip to the Philippines
Betty is
tired. She’s officially listed on the manifest as “sea dog,” but she
has been more than that. Mascot. Champion diver. Connoisseur of grilled
squid bits. Today, she is sleeping after an unfortunate encounter with a
jellyfish. A few hours later, Betty will recover. It’s hard to stay
away from all of the fun.
Meet Betty, the (pooped) sea dog
We are three days in on a five-day/four-night island hop from El Nido to Coron in the Philippines. The Sulu Sea is
an azure oasis of tiny islands, white sand beaches, and the occasional
catastrophic typhoon. It also has some of the best snorkeling and diving
in Asia.
Our crew – including Betty the sea dog – are all
natives of the Philippines. Our captain is a former fisherman with four
decades of experience on these waters. All are employees of Tao Philippines (taophilippines.com), a 13-year-old company that specializes in low impact experiential trips through the islands.
Tao Philippines works to preserve old seaman skills with a sustainable spin
Tao (pronounced ta'o)
– the name means “human” in Tagalog – employs more than 200 islanders,
many of whom previously faced a difficult choice. The decline of the
traditional fisheries in the islands forced many young men and women to
seek employment in the country’s crowded urban areas and even beyond.
Old knowledge of sailing and seamanship were being lost. Island villages
had started to become older and poorer. Tao’s founders began working
with local communities and stakeholders to provide sustainable – and
frankly amazing – island adventures for travelers from around the world.
Most
of Tao’s boats are modified fishing vessels with double outriggers.
Several decks can accommodate about 20-30 people and while the cabins
are small, none of the guests sleep on the boat. Instead, each night the
boat anchors off the shore of a different island and the guests sleep
in bamboo huts. Yes, it’s rustic. Bathroom facilities are shared and
basic (although much more advanced and cleaner than your average Beijing
public restroom by a long shot). Each hut has a mat and mosquito net.
This is camping, not Club Med.
There are certainly worse places to wake up each morning
There’s
limited electricity, very intermittent mobile service, and no WiFi. A
healthy attitude toward animal life – both domestic and wild – is also
handy. But it’s hard to argue with the view each morning as the sun
creeps into your hut and just beyond your toes you can see the blue
water and beach.
The island as seen from the boat
Each
day is a new journey with stops along the way for snorkeling and
swimming. The stops are unplanned as each trip relies on the experience
and intuition of the captain and crew taking into account sea life
patterns, weather, tides, and currents. The trip is not for the
schedule-obsessed. Staff remind guests early and often that time is
relative out on the water. Q: “When will we get there?” A: “Sometime
before lunch.” Q: “When will we leave?” A: “Sometime after lunch.”
It’s
also not an accident that what timetables exist revolve around food.
Breakfast, lunches, and dinners are included in the cost of the trip,
and they tend to be simple affairs of a protein, vegetables, and rice.
The meals are also incredibly fresh and delicious, with a heavy emphasis
on fresh seafood. Drinks are not included, but there’s a barman on
board and drinks are paid for by swiping a simple electronic bracelet
(the company stays mostly cashless during the trip). Happy hour tends to
revolve around complimentary pours of “Jungle Juice,” a potent mix of
fruit juice, sugar, and enough rum to stun a whale shark.
While
many of the trips involve boat journeys, the company also runs several
camps and offers packages which combine multi-day boat trips with
extended stays at some of their larger sites. Particularly popular is Camp Ngey Ngey,
built on the ruins of an old resort but which today offers sandy
beaches, hammocks, huts, kayaks, and some of the best sunsets in the
world.
Camp Ngey Ngey boasts some of the best sunsets in the world
Tao
offers trips departing from both Coron and El Nido. Of the two, El Nido
is the more picturesque although it is clear the big developers have
major plans for the small seaside town. Guesthouses line the shoreline
for before or after the trip and both Coron and El Nido have plenty of
merchants selling dry bags, snorkeling gear, reef shirts, and other
island essentials. It’s not necessary – or even advisable unless you’re a
US shoe size 12 trying to find reef shoes – to buy and pack in gear.
Tao
Philippines sailing trips tend to sell out quickly, so if you're
interested in booking with Tao for Chinese New Year, contact the company
as soon as possible.
Disclosure: The author did not receive any compensation or discounts for this article. All opinions are entirely his own.
Photos: taophilippines.com, Jeremiah Jenne
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