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From the moment Terry Townshend laid eyes on the Ibisbill – gazing at its striking gray, black, and white feathers, along with its bright, downward-curved bill – he knew that he had made a special discovery, but not only because the bird is so rarely sighted. No, what made the moment all the more memorable was that he had spotted the bird on the outskirts of Beijing, a locale so notorious for its smog, traffic, and sprawling concrete that it would be the last place many of us might think of when conjuring ideas of an idyllic habitat.
The rare Ibisbill bird that convinced Townshend that Beijing could be a birdwatching haven
Yet that 2011 trip to the outlying Huairou District helped Townshend realize Beijing could be a birdwatching haven. Since then, the British environmentalist has passionately espoused such in interviews for the New York Times and the BBC. Townshend, a British expat who arrived in Beijing in 2010 as the director of an environmental NGO, not only promotes this rarely positive Beijing environmental story in the media – he also tirelessly catalogs sightings on his Birding Beijing website, along with detailing numerous tips about how and where Beijingers can begin their own birdwatching expeditions.
“I was surprised to learn that there are over 480 species of bird in Beijing. But other people are even more surprised to hear that that total beats London, Paris, Washington DC, and numerous other major cities,” Townshend says during a recent interview.When asked for reasons why the capital is such a strong destination for our feathered friends, Townshend gives a relatively simple explanation: millions of birds dwell in the rural surroundings of Siberia and China’s northeast, and several of them pass through Beijing while migrating to water climes south.
The Green-Backed Flycatcher, one of the lovely birds that Townshend has spotted and photographed in the Beijing area
And that’s why Townshend is especially pleased to speak with the Beijinger for our Sep/Oct issue – because these autumn migratory months are some of the very best of the year to go birdwatching in the capital. His favorite haunt is Lingshan Mountain, located on the outskirts of west Beijing. Indeed, at over 2,300 meters, its summit is the highest point in the capital’s municipality, making it a place where “you can see some birds that are typical of the Tibetan plateau.”
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More convenient alternatives include the Olympic Forest Park, the Beijing Botanical Garden, and Yuyuantan Park. Townshend says: “Early morning is the best time to go, because [the birds are] hungry and they’re out, though early evening can also be good.”
One of the towers that Townshend birdwatches from
Anyone interested in getting a glimpse of what Beijing’s skies have to offer should check out Townshend’s website (www.birdingbeijing.com), which has submenus like “A Birder’s Guide to Beijing” and “A Birder’s Guide to the Great Wall.” He also recommends that newbies look into joining the Beijing Birdwatching society (which can be reached via email at beijingbws@yahoo.com.cn, or by phone at 134 3638 0443).
That society has over 400 members, which is only a fraction of its counterparts’ memberships in Western countries. But Townshend is heartened both by how the Beijing group is growing – up from 300 to the current 400 total in a span of 18 months – and especially by the number of young people who are involved.
“It amazes me how they see birdwatching as a cool thing. When I was young that was very much not the case,” he says with a chuckle, before speculating on one reason why. “Their parents came through the Chinese education system. They missed out on that connection with nature because the state curriculum taught so little about biodiversity. It looks like these parents want their children to have that connection, so the demand is growing, the enthusiasm is there, and that’s very encouraging.”
Photos: Courtesy of Terry Townshend
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