Authentic Kopitiam Dining at Kakikopi

Stepping into Kakikopi on the backside of Xiaoyun Lu's Food Street, Beijing's appetite for something new in a time largely marked by closures is immediately apparent. Drawing from the Southeast Asian dining tradition of kopitiam – crammed coffee shops where multiple outlets hustle for diners – full tables and a bustling atmosphere suits the concept well.

Floor-to-ceiling windows give the restaurant an open and relaxed atmosphere

Here, kopitiam has been given a contemporary spin with a massive and beautifully colored centerpiece mural asking diners, "will you be my kakikopi (coffee buddy)?" and floor-to-ceiling windows that give the space a bright and open feel. And while woks still fire up in the back and a playlist of Chinese language classics plays over the speakers, diners are spared pushing through hungry hordes by ordering via QR codes directly at their table.

The huge mural overlooking the space asks, "Will you be my coffee buddy?"

The restaurant and menu are overseen by Jasmine Kho of Mulu fame. Kho's ambitious attempts to create a home for pan-Asian dining in WF Central were sadly shuttered earlier this year, but the time and money saved by getting a jump on the pandemic, as well as the ongoing weekend brunch and successful delivery scheme at the original Mulu hutong location, have allowed her to hone her family recipes for the smaller plates now found at Kakikopi.

Clockwise from top left: Sarawak laksa, "vegetarian delight," Nasi lemak special, beef rendang

The coffee does good on its promise and comes thick and strong

If you're not looking to completely pig out, there's also a range of Nyonya kueh (Perakanan sweets and cakes) to enjoy over joltingly strong bottles of iced coffee (RMB 23) or teh c peng (three-layer tea, RMB 23).

Photos: Tom Arnstein