Local Gem: The Best Braised Beef in Town Is at Kiev Restaurant

Outside of the Slavic countries, China might be home to the most restaurants from that region. Likewise, Beijing – the political center of China and a northern city not too terribly far from the Russian border – inevitably has some of the best Slavic restaurants in the country. And for Beijingers who were born before the new millennium, such restaurants were likely their first impression of (non-fast food) Western culinary culture. 

Fear not, this is not an entrance to a Kiev train station

Admittedly, Slavic food may look rustic, but that doesn’t mean it lacks finesse. For a period of time, there was even a trend among Russia's nobility to emulate aspects of French culture such as their culinary techniques, but the tradition of a meaty, filling meal persisted, which is part of what made it a perfect fit for Chinese dining tables.

Say hello to the heroes of the revolution on your way in

The most famous Russian restaurant in Beijing may be the Московa Ресторан restaurant, aka 老莫 lǎomò (Old Moscow) as a true Beijinger refers to it, which has appeared in several movies as a symbol of Beijing's bygone days. For me, however, it holds too much historic meaning and the interior is overwhelmingly solemn, making it a less-than-ideal spot for a relaxing dinner with friends.

Founded in 2000, this local gem is a somewhat obscure dot on Beijing's gourmet map. Less than a 10-minute walk from the Gongzhufen subway station (Line 1 & Line 10), the inconspicuous entrance leads to a stairwell flanked with photos of Soviet celebrities and topped off with a giant red flag bearing Vladimir Lenin's portrait, altogether creating the illusion that you stepped into a Soviet-era gastropub. The underground design cloaks the restaurant in an air of secrecy and preserves this little hideout from the erosion of time.

Balance your vodka intake with a little Stalin-approved red wine

Now, onto the food. As one judges a Spanish restaurant by its paella or a Shanghaiese eatery by its soup dumplings, a Ukrainian restaurant may be judged by their beef stew. Served in a pot, the beef stew (RMB 67) ranks among the top in Beijing. The meat is tender and simmered in a rich vegetable gravy. What's more, it's topped with a crispy dough cap that not only keeps the pot's contents at an ideal, ready-to-eat temperature, but also adds another layer of texture to the dish.

There's a lot of tender beef under that bun

Images: Zeus Zou, Dianping