20 for 20: Hatsune’s Alan Wong
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In celebration of our 20th anniversary, we're profiling 20 movers and shakers who, much like The Beijinger, have called the capital home for 20 years or more.
Many of us, whether we’ve been a month or decade in Beijing, are sure to have seen waves of change sweeping the capital. Some are small, some are big, and you can either get swept away with these waves or ride them. One person who has ridden these waves for over 20 years is Alan Wong. The founder of Japanese restaurant brand Hatsune, Alan hails from California. This rad individual brought a little bit of California to Beijing with his opening of Hatsune – aka the first California-style sushi bar the capital had ever seen.
Alan and team prepare for NIKKEI, a special event hosted with Mosto
What brought you to Beijing, and when?
I was plucked out of my daily grind in California and dropped into Beijing in March of 2000. Back then I was a 24-year-old kid destined to get some China work experience, put that on the resumé and find a $35k a year job.
What were some of your first impressions of the city?
Beijing back then was a fucking blast! Ask the 5-6 foreigners still here from that era how much fun it was; dirty but super charming!
Did you imagine at that time that you’d still be here more than 20 years later?
No, like I said, my intended path in life was to sit in a cubicle somewhere making just enough to eat TV dinners and go to movies once a week. Either that or become a surf bum living on people’s couches and eating their leftovers. Actually, after all this I still might do that!
Can you tell us about one of your quintessential first experiences in the city?
My buddy had one of the first black Audi A6’s back in the day, that he lent to me for a night out. Between the seats I found a red magnetic police light that you could plug into the lighter socket and stick to the top of the car. So I did that, and drove down ChangAn Jie with the windows down, Hip Hop blasting. I know it’s super dorky but it was the year 2000 in China and I was 24.
Alan at Disneyland in Los Angeles
Beijing has given me everything that I am. I didn’t arrive with the restaurant management skills that I have now. That was learned here over the years competing with other restaurants and bouncing ideas off successful friends like Ignace.
What’s your main reasons why Beijing continues to be a draw for you to this day?
Seriously Beijing has so much to do within a few minutes around it. I was in Shanghai the other day and commented to someone how 30 minutes away from Beijing you have racetracks, mountain riding, hiking, camping, golfing, just to name a few. And 1.5 hours away you have snowboarding, including an Olympic size halfpipe, and a 3hours drive away, you can be in Aranya, Beidaihe where you have an amazing beach resort! In shanghai you have eating and drinking…unless you wanna drive 2 hours one way to get anywhere interesting. But no snow and no good beach.
Alan doing a run on the Ordos International Circut, what he calls the best racetrack in China
I played teams sports, like baseball and basketball, and was pretty good overall, but have come to find out that I really get a rush from individual sports. I have played a ton of golf, and must say that I am above par, and also like some of the more extreme sports too.
Snowboarding, motorcycle racing, beach sports; just to name a few, and my latest passion that I need to conquer is kiteboarding.
That is awesome! Are there any other cool (extreme) memories that you can tell us about your time in Beijing?
One definitely pretty amazing memory was during the Beijing Olympics when we threw a party for some of the Olympians, David Beckham, Usain Bolt, and Kobe Brynt were a few who happened to attend.
Alan with Paris Hilton, one of the many celebrities he's met over the years
Incredible! Any other celebrity run-ins while in China?
Another one that happened back in the day was meeting Paris Hilton. MTV contacted us and said she might be coming by the restaurant I was at back then, and sure enough she showed up. It was surreal seeing her and her huge entourage coming down the street. But they came in and ate, and I got to make her some distinctive dishes, including live lobster sashimi.
What's the story behind Hatsune for the uninitiated?
We started in 2001, when even avocados were hard to find then. Back then there were no restaurants doing sushi like us, California style rolls. Now it seems like unless it's a high end sushi place, everyone is serving cali rolls, and thats because of us. We had early success, and have been relentlessly copied over the years. But I'm okay with that, we just do new things and move on.
The new menu is coming out soon as well, which is a collection of recent signature dishes that we have been working on, and selling in limited quantities at the restaurant. Also working on a new 'secret' menu, which is a few kick ass dishes that we will never advertise. Only people that eat with me personally can enjoy them and reorder them when they come in next time
Alan and team at NIKKEI
Compared to back then, Beijing is so much more international, and known all over the world, but it is not as raw as it was back then. Even though there has been some amazing progression in an international sense, that are awesome too, some of the past things will be forever treasured memories. One thing I totally miss are the little things, like the renowned food street, the countless hutong restaurants, and all the little awesome things like this that often get left behind as cities grow.
Get the fastest electric scooter you can that can still plate a white plate.
Are you still doing what you came here to do, 20 years ago?
I’m still loving my job, and the people in it. Can’t see that changing ever.
Images courtesy of Alan Wong
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