Flo Puts Down More Capital Roots With Root 85
When it comes to Beijing-based restaurant groups, perhaps none have been busier since the pandemic than Flo, opening everything from a casual pasta bar to a Parisian-style steak house. The latest venture, Root 85, continues their partnership with China World Mall – where they already have F.Bistronome and Leo by Flo – adding yet another worthwhile venue to what is already a popular foodie destination.
Root 85's interior plays into the word "root" with an earthy green and wood design scheme
Root 85 is billed as a "canteen and wine bar," but don't let the word "canteen" fool you into expecting a school cafeteria-like experience — this is casual-yet-refined French dining with an international twist. The slightly unusual name has significance for both Flo and China World Mall: 1985 was the year the first Flo restaurant opened outside of France, as well as the year that ground first broke on the China World Trade Center complex.
Flo's newer restaurants have a distinctive belle époque Parisian café style, and Root 85 is no exception. From the parquet floors to the green glass ceiling lamps and the sunroom with its wooden director's chairs, the whole vibe is very un-Beijing. The two highlights of the space are the sunroom/terrace — expect to be able to sit outside very soon now that warmer weather is on the way — and the glassed-in wine cellar.
Said cellar boasts hundreds of different old and new world wines, many from small producers, so you are likely to find something different than other restaurants around town. Around 15 percent of the wines are natural wines, capitalizing on a trend that has been sweeping Beijing over the past year or so. Your editor is not usually a big natural wine fan, but I really enjoyed a glass of Pierre Frick Pinot Gris Maceration V 2018, a super dry white wine with both mineral and stone fruit aromas and beautiful amber color. I also liked that the prices of the wines were clearly marked on the bottles in the cellar, making it easy to select something within your budget.
Pick your own bottle from the wine cellar
That pinot gris paired very well with a bowl of cold shredded chicken noodles in a zingy soy broth (RMB 68), a dish that is emblematic of Root 85's international approach to cooking. I hesitate to say fusion since the dishes aren't really fusing any two elements, but there are certainly Asian influences at play in many of the dishes. That being said, the grilled bone marrow with escargots (RMB 125, pictured in lead image above) is French through and through and will have you reaching for some bread to mop up every bit of bone marrow and herby melted butter. Being a wine bar, Root 85 also offers a number of small plates designed to be shared over a glass or two, including a twist on surf and turf in the form of spiced lamb and shrimp skewers (RMB 66).
As you might expect from Flo, main courses include a selection of high-quality steaks
While wine bar may suggest an evening venue, Root 85 also offers good value lunch and brunch sets. If you check their Dianping listing, they are currently offering a weekend brunch set for one person, including a starter or egg dish, a main course (including chargrilled chuck steak), and a coffee or tea for RMB 228.
Find a DJ playing in Root 85's sun room on weekend evenings
Whatever time of the day you visit, Root 85 is a great new option for wine lovers and food lovers alike and is set to be yet another successful addition to Flo's portfolio.
Root 85
7/F China World Mall North Zone, 1
Jianguomen Waidajie, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸商城北区七层NL7002
(010) 6500 5422
Mon-Thu, Sun 11.30am-11pm,
Fri-Sat 11.30am-1am
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Images courtesy of Root 85, Robynne Tindall
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