As we continue our celebration of 20 years of the Beijinger, we’re taking a closer look at some of the expats who have been here for two decades and those who have had an oversized impact during their stay.
Whether you have been in China 20 years or 20 days, chances are that you know, or know of, Scottish photographer Bruce Connolly, who has called the capital home for more than 30 years. I had heard about Connolly from many different people in Beijing before ever meeting him in person, which truly made him somewhat of a legend in my mind.
Connolly often spends his time mingling with the locals, but can also be found mingling with expats at different functions, events, and ceremonies. If he’s not there as a guest, you’ll most likely see him snapping shots at such functions. But Connolly isn’t just someone out to document China with his camera, for he’s also an accomplished broadcaster, public speaker, and writer.
Connolly looking at one of his photographs, which was chosen for the interior decoration of the Hilton Beijing Hotel's One East Grill, 2018
What brought you to Beijing, and when?I had been a Great Railway traveler and
had already travelled through many countries. In 1987, I decided to look
eastwards: and in July that same year, came overland by train from
Glasgow, Scotland, passing through Europe, the former Soviet Union,
Mongolia, and the Chinese Mainland, before I eventually arrived in Hong
Kong.What were some of your first impressions of the city?Beijing in 1987 was so different
compared to the cities I knew in the UK or Europe. No resemblance to my
home city, Glasgow. Technologically it was much more intermediate.
Bicycles were still then very common, and they flowed in unison (no
racing); they just went with the flow. People dressed relatively
modestly. Many men wore white shirts, and ladies were not in the high
fashion we see today in Beijing, but there was an amazing beauty about
the place.
A "Welcome to Beijing" sign at Beijing Railway Station, 1987
People
I found were very friendly and indeed curious about where I came from. There
were very few cars, and the buses were the "bendi-buses" that used to
be common on Beijing's streets. The city had very few high buildings;
everything in Beijing was still mostly low-rise. The food was great and
totally unlike any Chinese food I had experienced in the West. Also,
there was a real feeling of safety in the city, and despite the city
being in a relatively early stages of development at the time, it was
also very clean.
The places I visited were magnificent, including
the Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, and the Great Wall at Badaling. I
very quickly developed a real fascination for Beijing and indeed China.
Did you imagine at that time that you'd still be here more than 20 years later?No way did I imagine that I would be here more than 20 years later. At that time, I was a traveler, but I had
a full-time job back in Scotland. Yet, I knew when leaving Hong Kong on
the long flight back to the UK that someday I wanted to return to
China.
Arriving in China, July 1987. Mr. Li (L) welcomed Connolly to China with the words "Welcome to China"
Can you tell us about one of your quintessential first experiences in the city?On the train approaching China from
Mongolia, I was a bit apprehensive. I had no idea what to expect.
However, as we crossed over the border, I met a man in the same coach as
me named Mr. Li. He put his hand out and shook mine, with the words "Welcome to China, you are welcome!" I have never forgotten that. Also,
arriving at Beijing Railway Station, a sign above the platform read in
English "Welcome to Beijing". In autumn 2020, on the front cover of the
SCMP Magazine, there is a photo of me and Mr. Li shaking hands alongside
the train.
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What's changed the most since you first arrived?There have been huge changes, but
thankfully not everything has changed. Even though the streets are
crowded with cars, cycling is still popular, but now everyone uses
shared bikes. The city has grown outwards and upwards; just look at
Guomao and the CBD with CITIC Building, aka "China Zun". The city's
architecture reflects a new era compared to the more conformist style of
past years. Lifestyles for many young people are so different, and they
have much more consumer influence.
Filming "Beijing Impressions Through the Lens" with CRI Online at Blue Frog Guomao, 2020
And
of course, we are in a smartphone world, so it's impossible to go
anywhere without the phone. Many older people still retain their
traditional lives as we can see in the parks every day. The subway
system today is world leading in many respects, and buses are all
environmentally friendly. There is also a much greater awareness of
protecting and conserving the city's unique heritage. Also, the main
railway stations are a paradise compared to the early experiences I had.
How do you think Beijing has changed you as a person?In some ways I have become much more
harmonious. I tend to be more easy going and more prepared to
compromise. I now tend to go with the flow and avoid getting into
arguments. I always travel on public transport, often to the surprise of
many locals, but there again I have learned to be harmonious and be
part of the community.
Leading the first Royal Scottish Geographical Society Tour to China on their first day in Beijing April 1998
What's your main reason why Beijing continues to be a draw for you to this day?With my academic background, which
includes historical geography, I quickly saw Beijing was an exceptional
city in its early layout and ancient urban planning. I developed a great
interest in researching the city. Also, Beijing, as is China, is
fabulous for photography. I have a passion for documenting "through the
lens" the everyday life of Beijing and the people. They are very
friendly to me as a photographer, and I have received many good comments
from people when they see my photography of the city.Can you tell us three of your favorite places in the city?These are many personal favorite locations in Beijing:
1. Presently I have been doing
a lot of photography at the Sanlihe area east of Qianmen. It is an
excellent example of a unique historical heritage area of Old Beijing. I
have also written about it and taken people on walks there. Again, I
have had many comments internationally of my photography there.
2.
The outdoor terrace at China World Mall 3. You can stand there and look
across at the new landscape of the CBD with China Zun and the
nearby CCTV HQ. I have been involved in making videos about Beijing and I
encourage the film teams with me to use that as a location.
At Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, June 2000
3.Silver Ingot Bridge (银锭桥 yíndìng qiáo) at Shichahai. I first discovered that
historic bridge in 1994 and it has retained that feeling (although the
surrounding area has inevitably become touristy!).
4. And here is another! The newly opened Subway Line 19, at the front coach. I can stand behind the driver and watch as we zoom at high speeds through the tunnels, it is a train buff's dream!
What's one piece of advice you have for relatively recent arrivals?
Take it easy. Beijing may look
increasingly international but there is a deep culture and long history
behind it. Respect the culture and don’t argue when asked to do
something that may feel different to what you have been used to back in
the West. I have travelled all over China, often on my own and have had
very few problems. If you are polite with people, if you smile, they can
be very helpful.
Playing Santa Claus in Sanlitun. An annual Christmas appearance at Blue Frog Taikooli, 2019
Try
to learn more about China, it is indeed a fascinating country, the
people are very proud of their country, and it is good to remember that.
Remember that with such a large population, the concept of a "harmonious society" is very important. Most of my time spent here is
often on my own, but also with the local people. I love those moments.
There is much to be had and learned from going into the areas where
locals go, such as the parks.
I noticed when I have occasionally
gone back to Scotland, friends have told me I have changed in many ways
and indeed have adopted a more Chinese way of getting on with life.
Looking towards the rising skyline of Beijing's CBD from the terrace at China World Summit Wing. (CRI Online, 2020)
Are you still doing what you came here to do 20 years ago?I am still out photographing Beijing,
but today digital makes it much easier and more productive. I am still
walking around and still have a deep fascination for all I am seeing
around me. I am still learning more about Beijing and indeed China.
Images courtesy of Bruce Connolly