How Hard Is It To Visit the Liangma River Now?
Chances are you've probably been to Liangma River at least once since the partial shutdown. If you haven't then congratulations, you're Beijing's newest generation of hipster that refuses to go to the latest “cool” spot. Now, this is by no means limited to foreigners, with just as many Chinese also frequenting the riverside – along with a regular fishing spot, it even became a go-to camping spot a few weeks back!
The Liangma River has gained such a reputation recently that it was even hailed by none other than China Daily as the “Seine of Beijing” and has become Beijing’s number one hot spot to hang out since in-house dining was banned at the start of the May Holiday.
Despite discouragement, the river still remains pretty popular
But following the initial flood of Beijing residents to the riverside, there has recently been an abundance of rumors and pictures circulating of a boarded up riverside suggesting that local authorities have taken to drastic measure to shut down the entire river.
I decided to have a look myself and cycle/walk from where the renovated part of the river starts, by Arrow Factory, all the way down to Chaoyang Park, to see if it's worth the bother of visiting or just avoiding altogether for the time being.
First, I went along the south bank of the river, then went back down the north bank to see just what exactly is going on.
The south side of the first section of the river by Arrow Factory seems to be business as usual with nothing blocked off.
The steps down to the river just south of Arrow Factory
No tape or fences in sight here
This section seems to have escaped taping and fencing measures
Across on the north side, one can find the first telltale signs of a blocked off area, with the white tent seating area having been completely blocked off.
You can no longer these white tents
Once you cross over Xindong Lu which has been one of, if not the, most popular area for Beijing residents to chill out at, you'll immediately find new fences have been put along the south side.
New fencing has been erected all along this section of the river's south side
The new fences go all the way along this section, blocking off the entrances from the sidewalks so that you can only enter and exit on the east and west sides.
Health checkpoint on the west side
On these sides, health checks have been set up which require individuals to scan their health kit and undergo a temperature check.
Health checkpoint on the east side
The north side doesn't have checkpoints to get in, but various areas are fenced or taped off. The popular picnic spot by the metal platform-like thing has been completely fenced off.
On the north side there are no checkpoints in sight
Not sure if the over-watering is also to discourage gathering?
Like the previous section, the south side of this area has all been completely fenced off so you can only access the river by two entrances/exits. These also require visitors to scan in and also have their temperature checked.
Health checkpoint on the west side
Health checkpoint on the east side
The south side doesn't have checkpoints but the grass and walls right by the riverside have all been fenced or taped off.
The north side remains free from a checkpoint
No amount of tape and fencing is going to keep Beijing's swimming uncles away!
The riverside has been taped off but you can still sit on the benches
Both the north and south sides have no checkpoints to speak of.
This section marks the end to the health checkpoints on the south side
On the north side, many areas have been taped off, and metal borders have been erected close to where some riverside restaurants are located.
The riverside has all been taped off
New fences block access to the decking area
Now, if you go over to the south side, things get a little crazy with the tape, which I think you could only class as excessive. All green areas are taped or fenced off and the river is certainly not looking very scenic this side anymore.
The entrance to go down to the river has been blocked off
No amount of tape is going to stop this Beijing fisherman
Now that is a lot of tape!
Popular grassy areas are a no-go
Even more excessive tape definitely spoils the view
Again, there are no checkpoints to get in on both sides of the river to be found here.
At first look, it seems that it's business as usual here
On the north side, entrances to the stairs down to the river have been blocked so you can't access the deck area underneath, which is where a number of tables and chairs are located. The area above this spot has also been blocked off.
Workers were erecting fencing along this part of the river on Wednesday (May 18)
Access to this seating area has been completely blocked off
Across the river on the north side, there has been some more enthusiastic taping, though nowhere near the manic level in the previous section of the river. Unsurprisingly, the circular gazebo-type structure has been completely fenced off as well.
On Wednesday, this had still been accessible but today (May 20), it has now been blocked off with tape
Whoever has to clean this up is going to have one big job in the future!
The south side of this bit of the river runs alongside Solana shopping mall. Along the top section (as of this morning) nothing has been bordered off. If you go down to the section by the river, the decking areas have been fenced off – though that doesn't seem to have put off some local fishermen.
This section remains relatively free of tape or fencing
In theory, you are still able to sit on the grass here
These Beijing fishermen really don't seem to care about fencing...
Gates have been put up at both entrances to the north side. However, judging by their style, their use seems to be more about stopping bicycles and scooters from entering, rather than people.
New fencing here makes it inaccessible for bikes and scooters
Perhaps the fencing here will become a permanent feature
The large grassy bank area has also been fenced off, it was previously a pretty popular picnicking spot.
If you print grass on the fence, you barely notice it, right?
No more picnics on this grassy bank
You are only able to walk on the north side of this final section of the renovated part of Liangma River. There hasn't been any fences or taping at all here, and as of press time at least, and deck areas were still accessible.
Deck areas along this last section remain free to access
At least it looks like these fishermen are social distancing
You can clearly see from the pictures documenting my journey along the river that there's still plenty of people out and about, though as this was daytime on a weekday, it's fair to assume it gets much busier at weekends and evenings. I also did see a lot of bao'ans about with megaphones blaring, and it seems that the number one tactic to try and discourage people from "gathering" is to attempt to annoy everyone into compliance.
Bao'ans are regularly patrolling certain sections of the river
From personal experience and reports from friends, people are being told they are not allowed to eat, picnic blankets and sit on the grass; sometimes sitting on the steps or ledges is fine, but not always. Once things become dark, the lights are no longer switched on and the annoyance tactics become more aggressive with people being told "to not gather and go home to sleep".
While it's fine to take a nice brief stroll along the river, unless you want to return home with a blaring headache and sore legs from being forced to move so many times, it may be best to avoid the river for the time being.
However, one burning question I do have from my journey along the river is: are Beijing's fishermen the true rebels of the capital?
The Best of Beijing in Readers' Photos, Pt. 3
Images: Katie Coy
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