CDM展讯 ｜ 实用与摩登——20世纪男士时尚生活
展览介绍 |
同时，影响男装发展趋势的另一个重要的原因则来自战争的洗礼与社会阶层的变迁。因此展览结合了馆藏的代表性作品，对功能要求极高的特种服装品类进行展示，它们所体现的功能性与便捷性引领了20世纪男士服装的革命。
20世纪下半叶男装发生了关键性的转折，在经历1960年代的 “孔雀革命”之后 ，男装中引入了丰富多彩的新元素。在功能性服装的影响下，随着欧美社会物质生活的日渐丰裕，全新的都市休闲风尚开始流行，男士服饰的面貌发生了过去150年中最为显著的巨大变化。大众成衣在此时也变得丰富且多样。
与此同时，功能性开始在后现代主义设计浪潮影响之下受到质疑，男装的风格随之很难被清晰定义和归类。混搭、个人趣味让男装更无边界化且朝着多元方向发展。无论是大众流行服饰还是亚文化边缘群体的着装，都展现出了与传统精英服饰截然不同的全新样貌，这也体现了战后欧美社会大众文化与精英文化的分野。因此，本次展览选择了摇滚乐、波普艺术等影响下的男士服饰，试图探讨身份认同与消费、文化的互动关系。
通过整个展览，可以发现20世纪男士服饰正在由上流精英的正统、经典的定制着装逐渐走向丰富多样的大众成衣及流行且多元的时尚潮流这一变迁。同时，也暗含了男装“功能性”这一主题在被重视与被消解的过程中交替发展的历史趋势。
展览信息｜
展览名称｜实用与摩登——20世纪男士时尚生活
展览时间 | 2022年11月6日-2023年3月12日
展览地点｜浙江省杭州市西湖区中国美术学院中国国际设计博物馆7/8/9号厅
展览入选文化和旅游部《2022年全国美术馆馆藏精品展出季活动目录》
主办单位｜中国美术学院中国国际设计博物馆 中国丝绸博物馆
总策划｜高世名 韩绪
总策展人｜杭间 季晓芬
展览总监｜袁由敏
学术顾问｜毕学锋 陶音 连冕 吴光荣 张国伟
策展人｜高原 王洋 安郁汐 赵帆
展览协调｜王剑红
公共教育｜刘一蓝 魏梓伦
藏品整理｜张素琪 高米叶
策展助理｜王依宁
空间设计｜灰空间建筑事务所
视觉设计｜陈铮 栾嘉辉
动画制作｜张一品
视频剪辑｜杨晨曦 蔡佳华 邹晨硕 葛瑶
展览工作组｜郑涵赟 金佳佳 白墨 任曈 叶瑶 厉亦宁
支持单位｜山东工艺美术学院
作品来源｜中国美术学院中国国际设计博物馆 中国丝绸博物馆（西装与部分工装等） 山东工艺美术学院美术馆（乔治·阿玛尼手稿作品）
其余部分展览作品由杭州西岸艺术品 崖空间 哈雷戴维森杭州 陶音 袁由敏 吴炜晨等出借
特别感谢｜元泰达新材料有限公司 上海尚乎彩链数据科技有限公司
Exhibition Introduction｜
China Design Museum of China Academy of Art will jointly hold with China National Silk Museum the exhibition "Modern and Functionality: Men's Fashion Life in the 20th Century". This exhibition enters into The List of 2022 China Art Museum Collection Exhibition Season organized by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the People’s Republic of China and will be on view from 06 November 2022 until 12 March 2023.
This exhibitionis based on the themes of ‘modern’ and ‘functionality', and be divided into five sections, which are:1. Symbol of Etiquette: Gentleman in Suit; 2. Pure Functionality: Application of Specialized Garments; 3. Liberate Restriction: Urban Sports and Casual Wear; 4. Freedom and Rebellion: Spirit of Rock 'n' Roll; 5. Fashion for All: Pop and Consumption. The five parts focus on the changing history of Western men's fashion life in the 20th century. Through specific exhibits combined with the clothing of key representative figures, such as politicians, writers, artists, soldiers, workers, musicians, and other different groups, it attempts to present how the looks of 20th-century menswear have been shaped by the discussion around the concept of ‘functionality’. Therefore, main lines of this exhibition are formed: From Pyramid to Popularity – The Diverse Changes from High-Class Elite Haute Couture to Mass Ready-to-Wear Fashion Trends.
As the most classic part of menswear that cannot be ignored, suits have already taken on an important aspect of the transformation of menswear from the end of the 19th century to the 20th century, they are the core content in the development of menswear. The pursuit of ‘functionality’ was particularly evident in its history of development in the 20th century. The exhibition will display classic works of multiple significant styles in the development of suits in the 20th century,and attempts to reflect the trend of the styles from strictness to simplicity and functionality.
At the same time, another critical factor affecting the trend of menswear came from the baptism of war and the change of social classes. Therefore, the exhibition combines the representative works in the museum collection to show specialized garments with high functional requirements. The functionality and convenience they embodied led the revolution of menswear in the 20th century.
The crucial turning point of menswear occurred in the second half of the 20th century. After the ‘Peacock Revolution’ in the 1960s, rich new elements were introduced to menswear. Under the influence of functional garment, and with the gradually abundant supply of materials in European and American societies, a new urban casual style had become popular, and the look of menswear had undergone the most dramatic changes in the past 150 years. The looks of mass ready-to-wear at this time have also become diverse and full of variety.
At the same time, under the impact of the wave of postmodernist design where functionality is questioned, it was hard to define and categorize the style of menswear. Mix and match, personal interests made menswear more borderless and diverse. Whether popular fashion or the clothing of marginalized groups in subcultures, they all indicated a completely new look that was divergent from traditional elite clothing, which also reflected the distinction between popular culture and elite culture in post-war European and American societies. Therefore, this exhibition selects menswear influenced by rock 'n' roll and pop art to explore the dynamic relationship between identity, consumption, and culture.
Throughout the exhibition, it is possible to see the evolution of men's clothing in the 20th century: from the formal, classic couture of the upper-class elite to a wide range of mass ready-to-wear, as well as the diversity of fashion trends. At the same time, it also implies the historical trend that the theme of ‘functionality’ in menswear have alternated between being valued and dissolved.
Name｜Modern and Functionality: Men’s Fashion Life in the 20th Century
Duration｜November 6, 2022 to March 12, 2023.
Location｜Hall 7/8/9, China Design Museum of China Academy of Art, Xihu District, Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province
This exhibition enters into The List of 2022 China Art Museum Collection Exhibition Season organized by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of the People’s Republic of China
Organizers｜China Academy of Art, China Design Museum,China National Silk Museum
Chief Planners｜GAO Shiming HAN Xu
Chief Curators｜HANG Jian JI Xiaofen
Director of Exhibition｜YUAN Youmin
Academic Consultants｜BI Xuefeng TAO Yin LIAN Mian WU Guangrong ZHANG Guowei
Curators｜ GAO Yuan WANG Yang AN Yuxi ZHAO Fan
Exhibition Coordinator｜WANG Jianhong
Public Education Consultant｜LIU Yilan WEI Zilun
Collection Arrangement｜ZHANG Suqi GAO Miye
Assistant｜ WANG Yining
Space Designer｜Greyspace Architects
Graphic designers｜CHEN Zheng LUAN Jiahui
Animation Production｜ZHANG Yipin
Video Editors｜ YANG Chenxi CAI Jiahua ZOU Chenshou GE Yao
Volunteer Working Team｜ ZHENG Hanyun JIN Jiajia BAI Mo REN tong YE Yao LI Yining
Supporte｜ Shandong University of Art&Design
Collection source｜ China Design Museum of China Academy of Art China National Silk Museum (suits and parts of workwear,etc.) Shandong University of Art&Design (fashion design manuscripts of Giorgio Amani)
Parts of the remaining exhibits are borrowed from Art West Bund, Ya Space, Harley-Davidson Hangzhou, TAO Yin, YUAN Youmin and WU Weichen,etc.
Special thanks｜Yuan Taida New Material Jiangsu Co.Ltd, Shanghai Surhoo Color Chain Data Technology Co., Ltd
©️中国美术学院中国国际设计博物馆
编辑｜公教部
校对｜王 洋 高 原
审定｜杭 间 袁由敏
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