Prof. Jane Gottelier took part in a panel discussion at the H.K. Fashion Summit 2019. The subject was ‘Interdisciplinary Collaboration in Sustainable Fashion Education’.
Fashion Summit (Hong Kong) is a result of continuous learning and discovering process, bringing together leading academics, key players from the fashion industry, NGOs, media, decision makers and leaders to achieve sustainable fashion in Asia. The summit consists of 2-Day Conference and Fashion Future Challenge Award.It plays a vital role to provide a sharing platform for participants from around the world to exchange insights on the latest sustainable fashion trends, technology, best practice, solutions, and opportunities.
Professor Robert Meeder C.E.O. of the Academy of Design. Colombo. Sri Lanka.
Christina Kountiou Professor of Fashion & Marketing S.C.A.D. Hong Kong.
Basia Szhutnicka Professor of Practice Fashion Design. Hong Kong Polytechnic University.
Professor Jane Gottelier Master of Fashion & Knitwear Design DeTao Masters Academy Shanghai.
Chair of Panel:
Dr Christina Dean Founder & Chair of Redress. Founder & CEO of the R Collection.
Each panel member was asked to give a review of sustainable education within their organization. This was an excellent question to kick off with as The DeTao Masters Academy curriculums emphasize key issues around sustainable development, the ecological environment, green finance and innovation.
DeTao Masters Academy has hundreds Masters from all over the World. With divers specialisms across animation, architecture, engineering design, dance, film, music, marketing, material science, and Technoetic Art to name a few. 10 of those Masters run 4 year Advanced B.A. Courses. Sustainability underpins all 10 courses. Courses include Sustainable Furniture Design, Ecological Architecture, Green Architectural Development, Wetland Restoration, Themed Environment Design, Sustainable Fashion Design. The Gottelier Studio B.A. Advanced Fashion Program has been able to collaborate with the following Masters on sustainable projects.
德稻大师 | DeTao Masters
德稻耐用产品设计大师万德伦 | Dirk Wynants Master of Sustainable Furniture Design
Prof. Dirk Wynants is a leading expert in durable furniture and equipment design. Dirk studied interior architecture and furniture design at the Architecture Institute Sint-Lucas in Ghent, Belgium. After completing his studies, Dirk established Extremis for the realization of his own designs in 1994. To date, he is still the full owner and president of the board of directors, but gives priority to design and art direction. In 2013, Dirk accepted the offer of Detao Group to share his design experience in China. He is now the leading master of Siva-Detao Master Academy – Sustainable Furniture Design.
As part of our Sustainable Jacket Project we are able to ask world renowned expert Kevin Urwin DeTao Master of Wetlands Conservation to talk to the students about how the fashion & textile industries are major polluters of rivers and waterways, and how to find solutions. Kevin divides his time between his studio in the Everglades in Florida and his DeTao Studio.
德稻生态修复大师李若云 | Kevin Erwin Master of Wetland Restoration
Professor Kevin Lee Erwin is a well-known and highly respected ecosystem ecologist who has pioneered the field of wetland and watershed restoration over the last four decades. He designed and completed the first large-scale restoration projects and the earliest mitigation banks in the US and has changed the way we think of restoring and managing damaged landscapes.
We also have interdisciplinary collaborations, for instance a recent project between the Ecological Architecture Program headed up by DeTao Master – Professor Haim Dotan and the Fashion Program headed up by Professor Jane and Patrick Gottelier. Professor Dotan is famous for designing the Glass Bridge that spans a canyon in Hunan Province and designing The Israeli Pavilion for Shanghai Expo, he is also an acclaimed poet. Haim divides his time between his studio in Tel Aviv and his studio at DeTao in Shanghai. The collaborative project saw an intense few days with students from the two disciplines tackling sustainable issues that would come up as future design problems that would need to be solved by both architecture and fashion students alike.
德稻先锋生态建筑大师及诗人渡堂海 | Haim Dotan Master of Ecological Architecture
Advanced Ecological Architecture Design Program will introduce the students to the vital subject of the Qi of life, ecological and healthy architecture and town planning. Students will study and design interdisciplinary ecological courses like ecological design, ecological construction, ecological landscape, ecological interior design, ecological urban planning, ecological mechanical system, ecological sustainable system and ecological transportation system. The program will be led by the designer and builder of Israel Pavilion in 2010 Shanghai World Expo and DeTao Master of Pioneer Ecological Architect & Poet Haim Dotan together with his teaching team collaborating with teachers from SIVA(Shanghai Institute of Visual Arts).
In the future we want to work with The Themed Environment Program headed up by DeTao Masters Tina Hart and Kim Jarret of ‘Dawn Finders’. They couple are well known for their work on the scenery for films, the Hobbit and Lord of the Rings and the design of the New Zealand Pavilion at Shanghai Expo, they divide their time between their studio in New Zealand and their studio at DeTao Shanghai. This program teaches students garden design, garden architecture and outside structures. We are hoping to collaborate in the future to design an amazing outside fashion runway.
德稻景观设计及主题环境大师贾金杰和郝天娜 | Kim Jarret and Tina Hart Masters of The Themed Environment
The Themed Environment Design Program is leaded by Kim Jarrett and Tina Hart, who are world famous designers in landscape design and themed environment, the designers of NZ Pavilion Roof-top Garden World Trade Expo-Shanghai 2010 and DeTao masters in landscape and themed environment design, with the international teaching team and teachers from Shanghai Institute of Visual Art.
The Gottelier Studio Fashion Program was founded by Professors Patrick and Jane Gottelier, Founders of the fashion brands ‘Artwork’ and ‘Geo Trowark ‘which is under license in Japan. Jane & Patrick divide their time between their studio in the U.K. and their studio at DeTao. Shanghai. At present working on Intangible Cultural Heritage projects across China.
德稻时装及针织设计大师葛丽婧，服装及产品设计大师葛特立 | Jane Gottelier Master of Fashion & Knitwear Design, Patrick Gottelier Master of Apparel and Product Design
They have over 25 year experience in running a successful Fashion company with their brand stocked by many of the most prestigious fashion retailers worldwide. The Gotteliers have also been retained as consultants to a host of international fashion companies such as Marks and Spencers, Shanghai Tang and The Limited. More recently they established a comprehensive, new, ground breaking and highly acclaimed program of Fashion courses at Falmouth University in the UK.
葛特立与葛丽婧工作室的可持续教育 | Sustainable Education at Studio Gottelier
Sustainability is one of the key topics at Studio Gottelier. The Sustainable Jacket Project at second year B.A. is a good example. In this project, the students have to design a collection of jackets, at the same time, they also have to explain their reasons of the material choices as well as consider the environmental impact of their designs.
3位女士在火车上织毛衣休闲娱乐，Tina的童时记忆 | 3 ladies knitting on a train for relaxation, Tina’s childhood memories
For example, Tina's collection is inspired by her childhood experience of traveling on trains with her parents. People were knitting on the train for relaxation, she started from this activity and designed her collection.
以毛衣棒针、带袢的技术结合了长方形的面料，仿皮面料来自上海工厂废料 | Joining rectangular fabric sourced from local factory waste with loops and actual knitting needles
柔软的棒针创造了服装的曲线廓形 | Flexible knitting needles to achieve curved shapes
Tina's original idea was to make a jacket entirely out of rectangular panels to achieve zero-waste pattern cutting technique. In process of fitting, she has decided to make silhouette more flattering by taking the hard edges out and made it minimal waste.
Tina's final realised design is made from faux leather that does not fray, also to give texture of train. Design details that show yarn made from laser cut factory waste. Tina’s Jacket answers the brief of the Sustainable Jacket Project as it minimizes production waste and hence the jacket is sustainable.
Tina的成衣 | Tina's final jakcet
论坛问答 | Panel's discussion Q&A
论坛成员们探讨了许多问题，包括“可持续教育应该是必修还是选修？” The panel were asked various questions including ‘Sustainable Education should be a compulsory or a laissez-faire approach?’
The panels view was that should be compulsory, and should be in bedded into projects not a separate entity. Sustainability should reach across the theoretical, the technical and design, the teaching of sustainability needs to have a holistic approach as in reality you can not always tick all the boxes. This was generally agreed by all the panel.
大家普遍认为“可持续知识对于所有学生来说都是必不可少的”，那么可持续时装教育应该是单一学科还是跨学科的？It seems the general consensus is that ‘Sustainable Knowledge is Essential for all students’, Is Sustainable Fashion Education a single or a multi-disciplinary approach?
The general consensus was that it should be multi-disciplinary. From my (Prof Jane Gottelier) point of view we have proved that at DeTao it works, it is relatively easy to make small curriculum changes while for other professors on the panel at larger more established educational institutions it was harder to make changes with out going through numerous committees.
“跨学科合作对于可持续时尚教育是冲突还是增效？” ‘Is Inter-disciplinary collaboration a conflict or a synergy for sustainable fashion education?’
We all agreed it was a synergy. Personally I think there needs to be more collaborations between Art and Science Universities, to find solutions together. A nice example of this is a Dutch Artist Daan Roosegarde whose blue sky design thinking invented a giant vacuum cleaner that is positioned in parks in Beijing that gets rid of smog.
“如何支持教育者们将可持续性概念融入实用且积极的课程当中？” ‘How to support educators to integrate sustainability into practical and optimistic curriculum?’
Panel members discussed they would like to bring in specialist visiting lecturers and industrialists but there was so little budget for this sort of thing which is true.
“如何在学校和社会层面为可持续时装教育制定目标？” ‘How to set goals for sustainable fashion education in school and in society?’