儿时味忆，三舍主厨带你一起踏上家乡的土壤

盛夏六月，来自上海镛舍、北京瑜舍和成都博舍的三位中餐主厨以他们的故乡为创作灵感，将记忆中小时候的味道与经典的地方菜肴巧妙结合，携手创作出饱含主厨孩童记忆的“儿时味忆”限定菜单。

This summer, our chefs of The House Collective from The Middle House in Shanghai, The Opposite House in Beijing and The Temple House in Chengdu, join hands to launch the limited edition "Chefs Story" menu. With their respective hometowns as inspiration, the creative menu skillfully takes the nostalgic taste of their childhood as their starting point to create a very special meal.

上一期，三位主厨带领我们探访他们童年时的足迹，以小时候所尝过的当地美食为线索，重拾起了他们儿时回忆。这一期，我们将继续跟随叶剑、徐存贵、李冬三位主厨的脚步，一起探访他们从小生长的土地有哪些特别之处，以及他们如何从这片神奇的土壤中获取新菜品的灵感，让我们一起看看家乡究竟对他们往后的烹饪理念产生了怎样深远的影响。

从小在上海渔港边长大的叶剑，儿时每天的节奏就是跟玩伴在滩涂玩耍、抓跳跳鱼和螃蟹，吃到的都是最新鲜的海鲜食材。所以，现在的他对食材特别敏感，尤其讲究食材的新鲜与时令性。

Tony Ye, who grew up by the fishing port in Shanghai, used to play with his friends at the tidal flats, catching jumping fish and crabs, where they could enjoy the freshest seafood. As a result, he is very sensitive when it comes to seafood - freshness and seasonality are top priority in his mind.

这一次，他带着我们前往位于渔港边的海鲜市场采买。对各种海鲜了然于胸的他，一边和当地渔民交谈，一边向我们介绍如何挑选肉质鲜甜的三门青蟹。

This time, he took us to the seafood market beside the fishing port. Knowing all kinds of seafood, he shared his personal tips on how to choose the freshest and sweetest Sanmen crab.

从小吃川菜长大的徐存贵师傅，向我们解释，其实川菜的二十四道风味里，有一半以上都不属于“麻”和“辣”，并且盛情邀请大家亲自品尝川菜中的麻酱味、咸鲜味、蒜泥味和传统糟香口味，以及成都有名的小吃——冰粉。

Tony Xu, who grew up eating Sichuan cuisine, explained that more than half of the 24 flavours of Sichuan cuisine actually are not the popular “numbing” or “spicy” that we may think. He invited us to taste the lesser-known, but just as delicious flavours and treats — sesame sauce flavour, salty, garlic and traditional braised flavour of Sichuan cuisine, as well as ice jelly, Chengdu's famed dessert.

品尝过一大桌子地道的川菜之后，跟随这位“当地向导”，我们到达郫县豆瓣生产基地去亲眼看看豆瓣酱在阳光下发酵成熟。豆瓣酱作为“川菜灵魂”，是徐师傅从小到大家中厨房里必不可少的调料品之一。徐大厨在经验丰富的老师傅指导下，打开酱缸，杵搅酿造中的豆瓣酱，从对色泽和含水分量的分析告诉我们一年和五年的豆瓣酱有何区别。

After having enjoyed a full table of authentic Sichuan dishes, we arrived at Pixian County to check out how 'douban' broad-bean sauce is actually made. As the "soul of Sichuan cuisine", 'douban' sauce is one of the indispensable condiments in his kitchen at home. Under the guidance of the experienced craftsman, Tony explained to us the colour and moisture difference between jars of different vintages.

作为一名地道的北京人，李冬认为，北京是个对各种文化都有着强烈包容性的城市。这种兼容并包不仅体现在人文历史中，同样还存在于菜品里。“说到北京菜，”冬哥侃侃道，“北京菜不仅仅是我们经常所说的卤煮肥肠等，其实它包括很多不同的菜系，比如山东菜、清真菜、宫廷菜以及传统小吃等，这些菜品共同融合成了现在大家口中的【北京菜】。”

As a Beijing local, Li Dong believes that Beijing is a big city comprised of many different cultures, as shown both in the culture and history, but also in the local dishes. "Speaking of Beijing cuisine," he said, "it is not just about the Beijing braised intestines we often talk about, but many different cuisines, such as Shandong cuisine, halal cuisine, imperial cuisine, and traditional snacks”.

说到北京的物产，李师傅带着大家来到了一片绿油油的菜地，回想到他小时候帮着邻居家打理菜园，闻着新鲜出土当季的菜，带着奶香的就是我们常说到的“菜味儿”，这是反季节的菜所没有的独特菜香气。

He later took us to a vegetable farm where he told us the story of how he used to help his neighbors clear up land for their vegetable garden when he was a child. Smelling the freshly unearthed vegetables of the season, one can know the real "vegetable aroma", which is noticeably absent in off-season produce.

冬哥从小就对历史故事感兴趣，现在也经常会翻阅古书，从文人墨客的笔迹中了解饮食的发源与历史变迁下中国厨艺传统的变化。古书籍给了他丰富的想象空间，让他进而获得更多关于新菜品的灵感。李冬还和一位美食作者一起探讨道，唯有在北京生活过的人，才能切身感受这里四季的更迭。

Deeply interested in history since he was a child and still today, Li Dong often reads ancient books to understand the origin of food and the changes in Chinese culinary skills. From these lessons, he draws inspiration for new dishes. During a discussion with a gourmet writer, they shared the Beijingers sentiment that only those who have lived in this city can experience the full change of the seasons and its impact on food culture.

正如冬哥所说的，一方水土养育一方人。分别在上海、成都、北京长大的三位主厨，他们将如何把在家乡这片土壤上所汲取的灵感，融合到此次“儿时味忆”限量菜单中呢？下一期我们将为你揭晓答案，请持续关注哦！

As Li Dong says, each place has its own way of nurturing its people. How will the three chefs from Shanghai, Chengdu, and Beijing incorporate their hometown inspiration into this limited-edition menu? Stay tuned to follow our series!

三位主厨将分别在各自所在的居舍系列酒店中揭幕这份特别菜单。瑜舍将在6月24号推出这份惊喜。敬请期待！

Our three chefs will unveil this special menu in their respective Houses. This menu will be available at The Opposite House starting 24 June. 

点击“阅读原文”一起探索此次创意菜品背后的更多故事, 提前预定限定菜品或套餐！

Click "Read More" to pre-book your place to try the “Chefs Story” menu.