Fearn Sanitarium：汾阳路30号背后的斐恒医院走访记 看华安妮如何买下满意的超级大花园洋房
这个深藏不露的旧时代超级大花园洋房的第一任不太重要，第二任房东才伟大，1916年，上海深秋，名叫E. Gerecke的德国外汇交易员有点落魄地离开了毕勋路，在这条小马路上他已经住了7年了，接手此宅的华安妮说，With the outbreak of the war Mr.Gerecke fell on hard times.艰难时世里从奢到简很难的，从大房子里搬出来以节省各种因为大房子产生的开支费用是E. Gerecke明智之选。
链接点进去看看：《上海音乐学院内两栋大宅原始房东找到了 Fearn Sanatorium斐恒医生夫妇的青鸟梦想》，《[增补版]上海音乐学院汾阳路校区的三个门牌号码其实分别是旧时代三户花园洋房的大人家》。
今天我们从淮海中路、东湖路口走去汾阳路30号，斐恒和华安妮的私邸以及斐恒医院（也叫青鸟疗养院）如今圈进上海音乐学院内，院内编为专家楼。我们一直觉得当年霞飞路辟筑时代在毕勋路（如今汾阳路）和杜美路（如今东湖路）口划出两道斜杠杠，由此进入了一个闹中取静的世外桃源，毕勋路一直到底通往贝当路（如今衡山路），小岛一样的地块上全是超级大花园洋房。链接点进去看看：《中国近现代史上的名人出没普希金像附近四岔路口 对《谁是蒋介石的邻居？》一文的史料补充》、《岳阳路1号：原美孚洋行大班阿特金森（C.W.Atkinson）大宅走访记》。
淮海中路多个路口安装了纠察行人违章过马路的红绿灯，老老实实地记住红灯停绿灯行就OK。我们站在了汾阳路、复兴中路口，汾阳路30号是栋商务楼，底商都是和音乐有关系的，文艺得很赚钱，绿门面开在此地多年了。
毕勋路30号需要从汾阳路20号进去找，2002年至2004年，我们在上海音乐学院混过三年，老门卫竟然还在，看着他身体还硬朗只是眼角的皱纹更张艺谋了。很多年没见面一切都好吗？我们还怀念着那些年在绿屋吃鲜中鲜一大桌菜肴，到了到了，眼前的绿色墙已经变成了淡黄。
华安妮对华回忆录专门有两章节写她的Fearn Sanitarium，字林西报上也常见Fearn Sanitarium。我们是逆时针地绕着房子走一圈，这样会有更大的惊喜，花园洋房最光彩夺目的总是在朝南的那个外立面造型。下图是俄罗斯汉学家张霞发布在https://pastvu.com/u/avezink/photo“上海城市老建筑坐标”图册里的毕勋路30号旧时影像，有点模糊，我们在华安妮书里发现了清晰版，稍候。
我们知道，犹太大富翁Edward Nissim一定来过邻居家，甚至可以肯定地说他对邻居的进户门很感兴趣，于是在自己家也Copy不走样。链接点进去看看：《汾阳路20号上海音乐学院大院内的原犹太总会实地勘察记以及史料放送》。也可以这样设想，这一地块的两栋超级大花园洋房是由一个开发商建造，是R.A.Curry却里建筑师事务所吗？我们在整理淮海中路历史资料的时候发现1925年邬达克的前老板却里先生的名字留在毕勋路19号，毕勋路79号大麦田私邸也是他设计的（邬达克设计的可能性不大），存疑。
抬头看，德国建筑鲜明的地方风格立马百分百地呈现在眼前。年底了，一棵圣诞树造型，德国造。
德国建筑风格的另一个特征是外露木桁结构条和装饰条，不在墙面上拼点木头和石块，德国人不开心。如今斐恒医院作为医院的痕迹不太能找到了，这个超级大花园洋房的周边搭建了很多简屋，不配大宅，降低身价。
穿过一条暗巷，我们走上几阶木楼梯，大宅原始辅楼也还在，只是被超负荷地使用，一位工友用奇怪的眼神看我上楼，看我拍照，他应该不知道他住的房子已经有110年的历史了，兄弟，善待老宅。
辅楼窗户也很德国，多重保护多种造型，再大的风雨也不影响一帘幽梦。
很快我们就站在了宽大的南面，往南看已经没有了大花园，老宅在，故事在。我们对着《My Days of Strength: An American Woman Doctor’s Forty Years in China》，华安妮对华回忆录《我坚实的一生》的那两个关于斐恒医院的章节转身再看眼前的实景。
华安妮113年前和今天的租户买家一模一样，先看大环境社区小环境再看交通方便不方便，毕竟开一家医院要病人上门来。
In the suburbs of the city, in the French Concession, stood the residenceof Mr.E.Gerecke,a German broker. The approach was a long,sweeping driveway, bordered on both sides by magnificent juniper trees setso closely together that they formed an effectual screen concealing the gardenfrom the streets. The garden itself was a gem; the house was huge buthomelike. It was far enough out in the country to be free from noise, or so Ithought, and near enough to the heart of city to be convenient as a sanatorium.Without even dreamingthat I might possibly possess it, I had mentally been fitting it up as ahospital for a long time.
华安妮为筹建自己的医院出来找房子，花园很吸引她，The garden itself was a gem，评价很高，房子也足够大，是她梦想中做医院的好房子：大房子之外还没有马路上的噪音，离开市区也不远。华安妮当即想要拿下，但她丈夫说了一句俚语，斐恒医生很幽默：愚者无惧，因为缺乏常识。
“I’ll take it,” I said, not asking the rent, which I found out soon enough was fourhundred taels a month, at that time about $300 in American money. It was aprohibitive price for one as impecunious as I. According to my husband, I was“singularly lacking in common sense. ”It was, he concluded gloomily, ” just another case of a fool ‘rushing inwhere angle’s fear to tread.’”
当年租下这个超级大花园洋房的月租金是400两，相当于300美元。这个租金有多高呢？后来我们在卫乐园1924年的楼书上发现租售比，虽说8年过去了，涨幅有点大。华安妮买下来又是绝对正确的选择。顺便说一句，卫乐园3号目前在租，1200平方米使用面积月租金28万元人民币，直接拎包入住，如需可小窗口《外滩以西》编辑部。
说归说，斐恒医生还是很支持她太太。我们站在可以站的最远的侧面看斐恒医院（青鸟疗养院）。
华安妮在书中继续写道：I was in a state of rapture over my acquisition and would let nosuggestion of forth coming trouble ruffle my contentment. In the midst of windingup his own affairs preparatory to leaving for France, where he was to join thestaff of the hospital for theChinese labor division of the British Army, my husband smothered his doubts andtook time out to give me invaluable assistance in the preliminary arrangements.
看得出华安妮很主观，女强人作风，在另外一篇别人的回忆文章中，她在苏州工作期间被同事起了个诨名叫“Small Typhoon小型台风“。我们在书中发现了毕勋路30号百年前清晰的正南面图像，和今天有点不一样的造型，上海音乐学院廖昌永院长你看到了吗？
最大区别在于德国风格的头盔屋顶不见了，还有三楼有个外挑空阳台消失了，修复难度不大。
毕勋路30号交易案再来看一下，华安妮写得更惊心动魄。
Shanghai Municipal Gazette记载（ 第10-11卷第 356 页，1917年）记载：Some two months ago I changed my residence from 56 Bubbling Well Road to 30 Route Pichon.原来她住过静安寺路56号，大致位置应该在今天的新昌路到成都北路一线，因为盛家老宅的地址是静安寺路110号。更早的时候他们夫妇住在北苏州路8号，公济医院也是这个地址。
One night这段，午夜电话铃声响起，德国人打电话·····
One night, almost on the stroke of twelve, I was awakened by the ringing of the telephone bell beside my bed. At the other end was Mr.Gerecke.Under stress of some excitement, he offered me the house as it stood, exceptfor the grand piano which belong to his wife, and for half the price he had previously quoted. The Germans had been notified in the French Concession would next day noon, stipulating that out of the purchase price I must remit the sumof $36,000(gold) to the firm of Schultz and Ruckaber of New York, paying there mainder into his account in the Deutsche Asiatische Bank in Shanghai.
德国人告诉华安妮房子可以打对折卖，但交易要快。看来E.Gerecke在大形势下找不到方向，急于将自己手中不动产变现，他要求华安妮一部分钱转去纽约，一部分钱留在上海。这一通午夜上、下家的电话交谈，让斐恒医生也觉得不可思议，哪有这么多钱啊，还境外付款转账纽约。
My husband , sitting up in his bed not three feet away, could hear every word of Mr.Gerecke”s excited conversation, but before he could interrupt I said,
“Done, I’ll take it.”
I hung up the receiver and looked defiantly at my sorely worried husband.
“Annie, are you mad?”
he protested.” Where are you going to get the money? And if you du get it
how in heaven’s name are you going to send thirty-six thousand dollars into the
“Well, I can try,” I said.
真女子，真敢试。回想起我们十五年前买一处老宅的时候也如此，我们愿意试一下，我太太也这样对我说。
让我们在这个超级大花园洋房的德国外廊转悠一圈，石块镶嵌增加了建筑的厚重感，早前的阳光房也已是变成了通道，地砖有点low，半拱型大窗户更好看也更耐看，依旧木窗户保真做得对。
我们读字林西报的标题，发现斐恒医院是和责任和关怀以及友谊联系在一起的，那些个短消息常有这样的文字，THE closing exercises of the Soochow Woman's Medical School will take place tomorrow at No. 30 Route Pichon,····（1919年6月24日报道苏州女医学堂毕业典礼在毕勋路30号举行），还有AT a dinner-party given on Wednesday evening by Dr. and Mrs. J. B. Fearn at 30 Route Pichon in honour of Mr. Frederick Stevens.（1925年12月25日报道斐恒夫妇宴请Frederick Stevens先生，他是一位中国问题专家）····可以想象在这个长长的外廊里留下过多少欢声笑语，在医院内又有多少小生命诞生。在华安妮的讣告中有这样一句话：She went to China in 1893 and established a sanitarium at Shanghai. She said she delivered 6,017 babies during her career in the Orient. 她接生了6017名新生儿。在这里出生的孩子长大以后应该有些回来看望过华安妮，她一定和他们在长廊里晒太阳、拉家常。
昨天我们预告过一个富裕的中国男子现在要正式登场，他是谁呢？
At eleven o’clock the next morning I had been the rounds of thebanks. I had been to the telephone company and to several personal friends,They had all referred flatteringly to my personal credit but no one would risklending money to be paid to a German. I was as far from my goal an the North Pole is from the South and myoption expired in an hour. I was about to give up, to my husband’s greatrelief, when I had a brain wave.
当华安妮搞不定的时候，她的一位老朋友出现在她的面前，他叫唐绍仪，曾担任国民政府内阁总理。A few minutes later I was in the drawing room of my old friend,
Tang Shao-Yi,one of
“Where are you going to get it?” he asked.
“From you,” I said.
“Ai yah!” He sat up very straight.
“We have no time to talk about it, Mr.Tang,” I said.” You know the place and you know me. We can arrange all the gruesome details this afternoon or tomorrow. Only now, this minute , I must have the money, if it’s only for today!”
Five minutes before my option expired we arrived at the Deutsche Asiatische Bank. Mr.Tang’s check was accepted and I had my property. The deed, insurance policies and other documents were handed over to me. Everything was in order and the deeds were registered promptly in the land office of the American Consulate.
唐绍仪帮了大忙，当一切都搞定以后，华安妮去了一次法领馆，那里的官员对她说：Mr.Gerecke had very good judgment to sell you this place so suddenment. And you, Madame, the good fortune to buy at that moneys.So beautiful! So magnifique!” 运道真好。
下图是华安妮接受孔祥熙的表彰，侧脸看有点像唐绍仪的。
因为没有预先与上音老师约，也就没有进入斐恒医院内部看个上上下下，透过玻璃窗拍了两张照片，壁炉在，护墙板在，华安妮曾经坐在书房里畅想和规划斐恒医院的未来，但这些戛然停止在1926年7月，那一年的5月21日，夫妇俩还在为英美社区60位孩子举行成年礼舞会，A débutante dinner party for about 60 of the younger members of the British and American community was given last evening by Drs. Anne Walter and J. B. Fearn at the Fearn Sanitarium,····6月7日，斐恒医生突发心脏病去世，享年55岁。
113年过去了，我们仿佛还能听见斐恒夫妇为了拿下（先租后买）这个超级大花园洋房在争论，那句a fool rushing in where angle’s fear to tread.真的是愚者无惧吗？斐恒夫妇、医生和护士、外长廊、大阳台、大壁炉以及辅楼里的工人，所有一切在毕勋路30号那么地协调，如今只能穿过缝隙去张望去观察，百年建筑已绿荫环绕让我们拍不出个大全景，没关系，我们多么希望有一天这栋楼墙面上贴一幅海报，有历史建筑全景，有斐恒夫妇，上面写着1916年至1926年这里是斐恒医院，也叫青鸟疗养院。
这一条路可能就是当年的车道。
后来这里成为比利时领事馆办公楼，纪佑穆（Guillaume,Jules，曾担任上海总领事后成为驻华大使）在这里进出，他有时候外出和太原别墅原始房东逖百克打打网球。