毕勋路30号在哪里？

原创本地老洋房外滩以西

收录于合集

这个深藏不露的超级大花园洋房第一任不太重要，第二任房东才伟大，1916年，上海深秋，名叫E. Gerecke的德华银行上海高管有点落魄地离开了毕勋路，在这条小马路上他已经住了7年。接手的王美德医生说：

With the outbreak of the war Mr.Gerecke fell on hard times.

艰难时世里，从奢到简很难，从大房子里搬出来，以节省各种因为大房子产生的开支费用，是E. Gerecke明智之选。

两年前，我们从淮海中路、东湖路口去汾阳路找毕勋路30号，斐恒（Dr. John Burrus Fearn）和王美德（Dr. Anne Walter Fearn）的私邸以及斐恒医院（也叫青鸟疗养院）如今圈进上海音乐学院，院内编为专家楼。

我们一直觉得当年辟筑霞飞路，在毕勋路（如今汾阳路）和杜美路（如今东湖路）口划出两道斜杠杠，由此进入了两个闹中取静的世外桃源，其中毕勋路一直到底，由东平路（贾尔业爱路）、桃江路（恩利和路）通往贝当路（如今衡山路），小岛般的地块上，全是花园洋房。链接点进去看看：

淮海中路多个路口，安装了语音红绿灯可纠察行人违章过马路，老老实实地记住，红灯停、绿灯行，OK。我们站在了汾阳路、复兴中路口，汾阳路30号是一栋商务楼，底商都和音乐有关，绿门面开在这里多年了。前年的爆款电视剧《安家》在店里取过景。

毕勋路30号需要到汾阳路20号大院里找。2002年至2004年，我们在上海音乐学院混过三年，老门卫竟然还在，看他身体还硬朗，只是眼角皱纹更像张艺谋了。很多年没见面，一切都好吗？我们还怀念那些年在（绿屋）外事餐厅吃“鲜中鲜”，一大桌菜肴，还有辣肉面。到了到了，曾经的绿色墙面已变成了淡黄色墙面。

回到正题，1919年，《密勒氏评论报》（Millard's China National Review）报道揭开了毕勋路30号一次不寻常的房产交易案。美国医生斐恒（也叫斐尧臣）夫妇买下格瑞克先生的花园洋房，改造为现代化疗养院，用戏剧大师梅特林克的“青鸟”冠名。

30 Route Pichon, Shanghai. Dr. Fearn purchased the property from E. Gerecke. and converted a private home into a modern sanitorium.It was given the name of the Bluebird Sanitorium from Materlinck's “ Bluebird,"telling of good service and ...（第9卷第280页，1919）。

谷歌书籍的关键词检索很方便，但吝啬。王美德对华回忆录专门有两章节写她的买卖经历，《字林西报》上也常见Fearn Sanitarium消息。

我们逆时针地绕着房子走一圈，这样有更大的惊喜，花园洋房最光彩夺目的总是在朝南的那个外立面造型。

下图是俄罗斯汉学家张霞发布在“上海城市老建筑坐标”上的毕勋路30号旧影，有点模糊，我们在王美德书里发现了清晰版。

我们知道，犹太大富翁Edward Nissim一定来过，可以肯定，他对邻居的进户门很感兴趣，于是在自己新居来了Copy不走样。链接点进去看看：《汾阳路20号：去看看尼西姆旧居》。也可以猜想，这一地块的两栋大花园洋房本就是由一个开发商建造，是R.A.Curry，却里建筑师事务所吗？我们在整理淮海中路历史资料，发现1925年，邬达克的前老板却里先生的名字登记在毕勋路19号，毕勋路79号麦地私邸也是他设计的或和邬达克合作设计的？

抬头看，德国建筑鲜明的地方风格立马百分百地呈现在眼前。

像不像一棵圣诞树？

德国建筑风格的另一个特征是外露木结构条和装饰条，不在墙面上拼点木头和石块，德国人不开心。如今，作为医院留下的痕迹不太能找到了，这个大花园洋房的周边搭建了很多简屋，与大宅不匹配。

穿过一条暗巷，我们走上几阶木楼梯，大宅原始的辅楼也还在，超负荷使用着，一位工友用奇怪的眼神看我上楼，看我拍照，他应该不知道他住的房子已经有115年的历史了，兄弟，请善待老古董。

辅楼窗户也很德国，多重保护多种造型，再大的风雨也不影响一帘幽梦。

很快我们就站在了宽大的南面，往南看，已经没有了大花园，老宅在，故事在。我们对着《My Days of Strength: An American Woman Doctor’s Forty Years in China》，王美德对华回忆录《我坚实的一生》那两个关于斐恒医院的章节，转身再看眼前的实景，115年前那一回买卖宛如昨天发生。

王美德115年前和今天的租户（买家，他们是先租后买）一模一样，先看市郊大环境、社区小环境，再看交通方便不方便，毕竟开的是一家医院。

In the suburbs of the city, in the French Concession, stood the residenceof Mr.E.Gerecke,a German broker. The approach was a long,sweeping driveway, bordered on both sides by magnificent juniper trees setso closely together that they formed an effectual screen concealing the gardenfrom the streets. The garden itself was a gem; the house was huge buthomelike. It was far enough out in the country to be free from noise, or so Ithought, and near enough to the heart of city to be convenient as a sanatorium.Without even dreamingthat I might possibly possess it, I had mentally been fitting it up as ahospital for a long time.

王美德为筹建医院出来找房子，花园很吸引她，The garden itself was a gem，评价很高，房子也足够大，理想的医院：大宅之外，没有马路上的噪音，距离闹市也不远。王美德当即想要拿下，她丈夫说了一句俚语：愚者无惧，因为缺乏常识。

“I’ll take it,” I said, not asking the rent, which I found out soon enough was fourhundred taels a month, at that time about $300 in American money. It was aprohibitive price for one as impecunious as I. According to my husband, I was“singularly lacking in common sense. ”It was, he concluded gloomily, ” just another case of a fool ”rushing inwhere angle’s fear to tread.“

当年租下这个超级大花园洋房的月租金400两，相当于300美元。我们在卫乐园1924年的楼书上发现”租售比“，八年前，当时王美德支付的月租金合算的。卫乐园的房子和毕勋路30号宅没法比的。王美德买下大宅，又是绝对正确的选择。顺便说一句，卫乐园最大两栋中的一栋在售，价格接近3亿元。

说归说，斐恒医生还是很支持她太太。我们站在可以站的最远处侧面看斐恒医院（青鸟疗养院）。

王美德在书中继续写道：

I was in a state of rapture over my acquisition and would let nosuggestion of forth coming trouble ruffle my contentment. In the midst of windingup his own affairs preparatory to leaving for France, where he was to join thestaff of the hospital for theChinese labor division of the British Army, my husband smothered his doubts andtook time out to give me invaluable assistance in the preliminary arrangements.

看得出，王美德很主观，女强人作风，在另外一篇别人回忆文章中，她在苏州工作期间，被同事起了诨名“Small Typhoon（小型台风）“。我们在书中发现毕勋路30号清晰的原始正南面，和今天有点不一样，上海音乐学院有关部门看到了吗？

德国风格的头盔屋顶不见了，还有三楼外挑空阳台消失，但修复难度不大。

毕勋路30号交易案再来看一下，王美德写得惊心动魄。Shanghai Municipal Gazette记载（第10-11卷第356页，1917年）：Some two months ago I changed my residence from 56 Bubbling Well Road to 30 Route Pichon.她住过静安寺路56号，大致位置在今天的昌路到成都北路一线，盛家斜桥老宅地址是静安寺路110号。更早的时候，斐恒夫妇住在北苏州路8号公济医院医师宿舍。

One night这一段，午夜电话铃声响了起来，是德国卖家打来的·····

One night, almost on the stroke of twelve, I was awakened by the ringing of the telephone bell beside my bed. At the other end was Mr.Gerecke.Under stress of some excitement, he offered me the house as it stood, exceptfor the grand piano which belong to his wife, and for half the price he had previously quoted. The Germans had been notified in the French Concession would next day noon, stipulating that out of the purchase price I must remit the sumof $36,000(gold) to the firm of Schultz and Ruckaber of New York, paying there mainder into his account in the Deutsche Asiatische Bank in Shanghai.

德国人告诉王美德房子可以对折卖，但交易要快。看来E.Gerecke在大形势下找不到方向，急于将自己手中不动产变现，他要求王美德一部分钱转去纽约，一部分钱留在上海。这一通午夜上、下家电话交谈，让斐恒医生也觉得不可思议，这么多急用的钱啊，还境外付款呢。

My husband , sitting up in his bed not three feet away, could hear every word of Mr.Gerecke”s excited conversation, but before he could interrupt I said,

“Done, I’ll take it.”

I hung up the receiver and looked defiantly at my sorely worried husband.

“Annie, are you mad?” he protested.” Where are you going to get the money? And if you du get it how in heaven’s name are you going to send thirty-six thousand dollars into the

United States

to be paid to a German firm?”

“Well, I can try,” I said.

真女子，真敢试。回想起十多年前为买一处老宅，我太太也说：愿意试一下。

让我们在这个超级大花园洋房外廊转悠一圈，石块镶嵌增强了建筑厚重感，早前阳光房也已是变成了通道，地砖有点low，半拱型大窗户耐看。

我们读《字林西报》标题，发现斐恒医院是和责任、关怀及友谊联系在一起：

THE closing exercises of the Soochow Woman's Medical School will take place tomorrow at No. 30 Route Pichon,····（1919年6月24日，苏州女医学堂毕业典礼在毕勋路30号举行），

AT a dinner-party given on Wednesday evening by Dr. and Mrs. J. B. Fearn at 30 Route Pichon in honour of Mr. Frederick Stevens.（1925年12月25日，斐恒夫妇宴请Frederick Stevens先生，他是一位中国问题专家）

可以想象，在这个长长的外廊留下多少欢声笑语，医院内，又有多少小生命诞生。王美德讣告中有这样一句话：

She went to China in 1893 and established a sanitarium at Shanghai. She said she delivered 6,017 babies during her career in the Orient. 她接生了6017名新生儿。

这里出生的孩子长大以后，应该有些回来看望过王美德，她一定和他们在长廊里晒太阳、拉家常。

At eleven o’clock the next morning I had been the rounds of thebanks. I had been to the telephone company and to several personal friends,They had all referred flatteringly to my personal credit but no one would risklending money to be paid to a German. I was as far from my goal an the North Pole is from the South and myoption expired in an hour. I was about to give up, to my husband’s greatrelief, when I had a brain wave.

当王美德急着筹钱搞不定团团转的时候，她一位老朋友出现在她的面前，他叫唐绍仪，曾担任国民政府内阁总理。

A few minutes later I was in the drawing room of my old friend, Tang Shao-Yi,one of

China

’s great men and former Premier of the Provisional Republic. I told him my story, my words tumbling over each other in my eagerness. and I ended by announcing that I must have the sum within fifteen minutes.

“Where are you going to get it?” he asked.

“From you,” I said.

“Ai yah!” He sat up very straight.

“We have no time to talk about it, Mr.Tang,” I said.” You know the place and you know me. We can arrange all the gruesome details this afternoon or tomorrow. Only now, this minute , I must have the money, if it’s only for today!”

Five minutes before my option expired we arrived at the Deutsche Asiatische Bank. Mr.Tang’s check was accepted and I had my property. The deed, insurance policies and other documents were handed over to me. Everything was in order and the deeds were registered promptly in the land office of the American Consulate.

唐绍仪帮了大忙，当一切搞定后，王美德去了一次法领馆，那里官员对她说：

Mr.Gerecke had very good judgment to sell you this place so suddenment. And you, Madame, the good fortune to buy at that moneys.So beautiful! So magnifique!”

运道真好。下图是王美德与孔祥熙，孔祥熙侧脸看上去有点像唐绍仪。

没进斐恒医院内部看个上上下下，透过玻璃窗拍了两张，壁炉在，护墙板在，王美德曾坐在书房里畅想和规划斐恒医院未来，但这些戛然停止在1926年7月，那一年的5月21日，夫妇俩还在为英美社区60位孩子举行成年礼舞会，A débutante dinner party for about 60 of the younger members of the British and American community was given last evening by Drs. Anne Walter and J. B. Fearn at the Fearn Sanitarium,····6月7日，斐恒医生突发心脏病去世，享年55岁。斐恒去世后，王美德决定离开。

斐恆醫生生於美國。幼學於紐約及非律得非亞省。在美國行醫有年。一千八百九十五年來華。服務於中國教會二十年。在法國軍醫隊二年半。在上海公濟醫院爲秘書及監督五年。Fearn, John Burrus Born at Jackson, Mississippi,U.S.A. Educated in native state, Memphis, Tenn., New York and Phila. Came to China in April, 1895. Practiced medicine in native state, missionary work in China for twenty years, two years and a half in Royal Army Medical Corps in France and five years as Resident Medical Superintendent and Secretary of Shanghai General Hospital.（1924年中国诸业领袖人物小传）

115年过去了，我们仿佛还能听见斐恒夫妇为了拿下（先租后买）这个大花园洋房在争论，那句”a fool rushing in where angle’s fear to tread“真的是”愚者无惧“吗？斐恒夫妇、医生和护士、外廊、阳台、壁炉以及辅楼里的工人，所有一切在毕勋路30号那么地协调，如今只能穿过缝隙去张望，百年建筑已绿荫环绕，拍不出大全景，没关系，我们希望有一天，这栋楼墙面贴一幅海报，有历史建筑全景，有斐恒夫妇，上面写着：

1916年至1926年

斐恒医院（青鸟疗养院）

王美德曾任花旗妇女总会总董，她积极推动了美童公学贝当路新校区建设工作。

这一条路可能是当年的车道。

后来，这里成为比利时领事署，纪佑穆（Guillaume,Jules，曾任上海总领事，后为驻华大使）在这里进出，他有时候外出和太原别墅原始房东逖百克打网球。

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